Among the mountains east of Hida and Takayama are strewn numerous onsen-bearing ryokan, owing to the abundance of natural hot springs in the region and the secluded, peaceful atmosphere that the forested peaks and valleys provide. On an afternoon stroll down the road along Gamada River from the small and quiet family-run ryokan I stayed at one winter, trudging through the slush and snow of early February, the scenes of the water seemed out of place. Surrounded by mountains studded with dark pine trees, flocked in thick coats of pure snow, the river cut a path of warmth and turquoise.

Deep into the winter, and still months ahead of the annual snow melt, the pace of the river was slow. Almost a standstill in wider sections, easily mistaken for a lake if you only afforded it a brief glance. Until the melt arrives later in the year, the river carries mostly the expressions from the countless natural springs. The water too warm, even kilometers into its journey beneath the cold winter winds, to form ice. But a fantastic source of respite for boot-weary feet at the small parks and the occasional public bath along the banks that are a popular attraction for visitors and locals alike.